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brewstand build


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#1 EWW

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 09:49 PM

spent the day cutting and welding. I didn't get a pick at the end of the day, but do have a mock up prior to starting to weld (this is just the bottom section)Posted Imagethe finished product should look something like this (I've made some minor changes since I put this pic together)Posted ImageThis will be a direct fired RIMS (like Brutus), but it will break down into two sections and fit in my Honda AccordI'll post more as I make progress

#2 SnailPowered

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 12:11 AM

The idea looks awesome! I can't wait to seethe final product! :frank:

#3 EWW

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 09:56 AM

The idea looks awesome! I can't wait to seethe final product! :frank:

Thanks. It's looking like the rain is going to keep me from doing to much work today (I don't like to weld when it's rainy and moist) but I'm heading out to my garage to clean up some welds and whatnot. I'll post my progress later tonight.

#4 siouxbrewer

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 10:11 AM

Nice build man, looking forward to future pics. What size system is it? What are you using for burners? Also love to see that panel when you wire it up :frank:

#5 EWW

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 08:09 PM

didn't get too much done today... A buddy stop by and we drank crap beer, shot the shit, and watched it rain. Here is the work I have donePosted Imageand here is a pic withe next stage of welding staged (it's upside down for those who may be puzzled)Posted Imagethe wheels will be in the notch out The system is built around 3 20 gallon boilermakers, so I should be able to brew 5-15 gallon batches without issue. I'm unsure of the burners righ now. I'll either go with banjo or a 10 jet ring burner. Pics of the pannel will be posted when I get to that point. Stay tuned for more in about a week.

#6 Stout_fan

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 01:45 PM

... it will break down into two sections and fit in my Honda Accord ...

Yea, when the brewstand is bigger than the transport it requires a serious application of Quantum Physics to make it work.Here's the last poor SOB that tried it.Posted Image

#7 EWW

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 03:44 PM

Yea, when the brewstand is bigger than the transport it requires a serious application of Quantum Physics to make it work.

LOL. The way I'm doing it is pretty simple. The top of the base (pic above) has 4 vertical 1.5" sq tube pieces. The rest of the stand is made out of 1.25" sq tube. The 1.25 fits snuggly into the 1.5, so the legs of the top will slide right down into the base anchoing it together. The base (including the wheels) is 39 x 20 x 13 which fits nicely in my trunk. The top section will fit in the back seat and everything else gets stacked throughout the rest of the car. It took some pseudo engineering skill, but if I pull it off it will be pretty slick.

#8 matt6150

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 06:50 PM

Just curious why it needs to fit in your trunk, you drive around with it often?

#9 EWW

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 07:17 PM

Just curious why it needs to fit in your trunk, you drive around with it often?

President of my club and we do a number of brew outs/ins each year.I stopped by an asian resturant supply shop after work today and picked up my burners. The guy was curious as to why a young lanky white guy would want 3 of these, and after I explained why he have me a deep discount. Apparently he sells them on eBay and he liked my suggestion to list beer/homebrew as a key word i guess. Anyway, they're 8" with 20 jets and are quoted at around 120 btu. The first pic is with out the flame sheild and the second is with it. It should be simple to run a pilot to these. I can't decide if I'll use the the flame thing yet or not, any thoughts?Posted ImagePosted Image

#10 BlKtRe

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 06:24 AM

I use low pressure cast wok burners as well. Except mine has the nozzles set at angles to each other. I have no clue how your burners will work. As far as the shield goes, I think you just need to try with them on and off. If the burner isn't going to be protected in any way, I say use them just as a wind block if anything. Secondly, I think a selectable pressure reg. up to 20psi would work well with these burners. This will allow you to fine tune your flame. Something like the COM2. The COM2 is a 0-20psi High Pressure reg. but its adjustable and its the reg. that is recommended for low pressure cast burners.COM2Also, are those NG or propane nozzles?

#11 EWW

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Posted 08 June 2010 - 06:56 AM

Thanks for the suggestion on the regulator. The sheilds weigh a ton, so I'm thinkng I may need to support the burners better if I use then (instead of just running them unsupported on black pipe).They're LPG


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