39 replies to this topic

[harryfrog]

I generally don't like to poke around in areas that I don't know anything about

good luck!Try the fan also, it should be a free test (i'm sure you have a fan kicking around and a plug adapter to be able to plug multiple things into the temp controller.

[Big Nake]

So do the coils just look like a springy mattress kind of thing? From the back of the fridge, I see a "tank" and next to that there is a drip tray of some sort. In front of the tank (not really accessible) is something that looks like spring mattress coils. I can't see them well, but they do not look overly dirty or dusty. I can't see being able to get to them any easy way. But at the moment, the temp looks a little cooler in there so I will let it ride for a few days and see if it's better. No beer today because I was at my son's baseball game and now I'm off to bed. Cheers & thanks guys.

[3rd party JKor]

So do the coils just look like a springy mattress kind of thing? From the back of the fridge, I see a "tank" and next to that there is a drip tray of some sort. In front of the tank (not really accessible) is something that looks like spring mattress coils. I can't see them well, but they do not look overly dirty or dusty. I can't see being able to get to them any easy way. But at the moment, the temp looks a little cooler in there so I will let it ride for a few days and see if it's better. No beer today because I was at my son's baseball game and now I'm off to bed. Cheers & thanks guys.

The "coils" he's referring to are the coils that the hot refrigerant flows throw on the outside of the refrigerator. Is there a large area on the fridge that gets warm while it's running? Newer refrigerators have the coils exposed in the back like this:If you don't see anything like that they may be internal. They are also internal on chest freezers. That's why the outside of the chest freezer gets warm while it's running.

[Big Nake]

Oh, that's good JK. Okay, I have a panel on the back of the fridge that I may be able to remove. I can see the bottom area (shown in your photo) with the tank on the left and drip try on the right. But all of those coils (if they're there) are covered with a white panel that I would probably have to remove. I will look into that and make sure they're clean. Thanks Man.

[Spoon]

Also, when you are working w/ Fridges people forget one thing. The Fridge is taking the cold air from the freezer, it is not making its own cold air. The only way to make things colder in the fridge is to take from the freezer more efficiently. When you make adjustments to the Fridge you are only opening baffels to the freezer. Best suggestion is to get a freezer and use the controller to get it up to the temp you require. Or try to add some fans or additional opening to the freezer compartment.

[Big Nake]

Also, when you are working w/ Fridges people forget one thing. The Fridge is taking the cold air from the freezer, it is not making its own cold air. The only way to make things colder in the fridge is to take from the freezer more efficiently. When you make adjustments to the Fridge you are only opening baffels to the freezer. Best suggestion is to get a freezer and use the controller to get it up to the temp you require. Or try to add some fans or additional opening to the freezer compartment.

A-ha. Really? Like maybe drill a hole between the freezer and fridge? In my freezer I have a plastic bucket that has my hops in it (a bunch of 1 oz pellet bags). Along with that there is a bunch of ice that has built up, so I really don't know how air flows from the freezer to the fridge. But this sounds promising because I really don't care what I do to this fridge as long as it does what I want. I've already futzed with the door liner, ripped out all of the shelves and drilled holes in the sucker so screwing with the freezer would be a no-brainer. Unfortunately, I would need to get all of that built-up ice out of the freezer to see what's what. Another great idea though. Thanks again guys.

[Spoon]

That ice is telling me that the defrost element or timer is gone if it is frost-free. The build up of ice will inhibit air flow and make it harder for your freezer to chill properly. They are cheapo and you can buy a universal if your system is too old.

[3rd party JKor]

That ice is telling me that the defrost element or timer is gone if it is frost-free. The build up of ice will inhibit air flow and make it harder for your freezer to chill properly. They are cheapo and you can buy a universal if your system is too old.

Based on Ken's description of the inside of his fridge, I got the impression that the fridge compartment has it's own dedicated coil. It's an older fridge, so the design may be different. Most new fridges do take the cold air directly from the freezer.

[Big Nake]

Okay, so after checking the model & serial number on my fridge and after doing a web search, it appears that (it's possible) my fridge was built in May 1985. Personally, it seems older than that to me, but I suppose it's possible. The webpage I found says that GE uses the same aging routine in the serial number in 12 year cycles... so maybe it's actually from 1973! Also, while searching, I found a sticker in the freezer that says that once the built up ice is ¼" thick, the freezer should be defrosted by turning the thermostat to "off" and allowing the ice to melt for 6 hours. It says that once the ice is ½" thick, the fridge should be turned off for 24 hours. Hmm. The ice in my freezer is about 3" thick. It also says that the fridge should never run for longer than 6 months without defrosting it. I have never had a fridge that requires this process so I suppose I should consider myself lucky that the sucker even runs & keeps my beer cold. Maybe I should plan a 2-day span where I shut it off, allow it to defrost and then crank it back up and drink bottled beer in the meantime.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Okay, so after checking the model & serial number on my fridge and after doing a web search, it appears that (it's possible) my fridge was built in May 1985. Personally, it seems older than that to me, but I suppose it's possible. The webpage I found says that GE uses the same aging routine in the serial number in 12 year cycles... so maybe it's actually from 1973! Also, while searching, I found a sticker in the freezer that says that once the built up ice is ¼" thick, the freezer should be defrosted by turning the thermostat to "off" and allowing the ice to melt for 6 hours. It says that once the ice is ½" thick, the fridge should be turned off for 24 hours. Hmm. The ice in my freezer is about 3" thick. It also says that the fridge should never run for longer than 6 months without defrosting it. I have never had a fridge that requires this process so I suppose I should consider myself lucky that the sucker even runs & keeps my beer cold. Maybe I should plan a 2-day span where I shut it off, allow it to defrost and then crank it back up and drink bottled beer in the meantime.

sounds like that would help you out!

[3rd party JKor]

Okay, so after checking the model & serial number on my fridge and after doing a web search, it appears that (it's possible) my fridge was built in May 1985. Personally, it seems older than that to me, but I suppose it's possible. The webpage I found says that GE uses the same aging routine in the serial number in 12 year cycles... so maybe it's actually from 1973! Also, while searching, I found a sticker in the freezer that says that once the built up ice is ¼" thick, the freezer should be defrosted by turning the thermostat to "off" and allowing the ice to melt for 6 hours. It says that once the ice is ½" thick, the fridge should be turned off for 24 hours. Hmm. The ice in my freezer is about 3" thick. It also says that the fridge should never run for longer than 6 months without defrosting it. I have never had a fridge that requires this process so I suppose I should consider myself lucky that the sucker even runs & keeps my beer cold. Maybe I should plan a 2-day span where I shut it off, allow it to defrost and then crank it back up and drink bottled beer in the meantime.

Yikes, you might want to get some kindling start a little fire in there to speed it up!

[Big Nake]

When the time is right, I will unplug the fridge, allow the ice to melt and then fire it back up again. It's clear that I need to look into a newer fridge though. Not only would it be frost-free but it would also run more efficiently. I am always seeing one at the curb here or there but I haven't really needed one so the next time... I'm grabbing it! Cheers.

[Stout_fan]

The problem with that much ice build-up is that it probably is in the insulation as well. I have an oldie as well. When I do a defrost the ice melts quickly (well, it does with a hairdryer pointed at it). Then it takes 6 hours for the dripping to stop.Don't bogart the fridge though. Those freezers are better for preserving hops than the frost free types.

[Spoon]

If you can stuff a light bulb inside the freezer with like a mechanics light then shut the door it will thaw very quickly.

[Spoon]

Also on another note, check to see if your fridge has a rotory style compressor, if so start saving your money now and buy another. The design was terrible and there was no way for carbon build up to be released so it slowly choked itself to death over time. I had one and it began to have issues with cooling. We gave it away shortly after. It was an older GE about the same time frame too.

[davelew]

How are you serving out of this fridge? Is the frideg well sealed against any air leaks from inside to outside?If outside air leaks into the fridge, you will get a warm fridge and icing on the coils, like you've observed.

[Big Nake]

How are you serving out of this fridge? Is the frideg well sealed against any air leaks from inside to outside?If outside air leaks into the fridge, you will get a warm fridge and icing on the coils, like you've observed.

I took the molded plastic off the door and replaced it with a flat door liner. I will admit that getting the weatherstripping/gasket-type-thing back on was a struggle and by far the worst part of this project. Where it did not go back together "gracefully", I caulked it closed. Also, the door sort of "flexed" when I had it on the ground and closing it was tough until I snapped it back in place. I have a heavy bucket in front of the door to make sure it's closed tightly. Otherwise, the lines go out the side of the fridge to the taps... about 6" of the lines are outside of the fridge and they have insulated tubing on them.

[Spoon]

I have an old crappy upright that will be getting replaced a good deal when i bought it 4 years ago for 60 bucks. The door is poorly insulated and I have though of boring holes and filling it w/ spray expanding foam to help insulate. My garage gets well above 100* in the summer w/ the door closed. I try to keep the door cracks and disapearing staircase to the attic open to help circulate the air, but it doesn't help too much when it is 95*+ outside like it is today.

[davelew]

I took the molded plastic off the door and replaced it with a flat door liner. I will admit that getting the weatherstripping/gasket-type-thing back on was a struggle and by far the worst part of this project. Where it did not go back together "gracefully", I caulked it closed. Also, the door sort of "flexed" when I had it on the ground and closing it was tough until I snapped it back in place. I have a heavy bucket in front of the door to make sure it's closed tightly. Otherwise, the lines go out the side of the fridge to the taps... about 6" of the lines are outside of the fridge and they have insulated tubing on them.

Are there any parts of the outside of the fridge that feel cold to the touch? Is there any air leaking around the lines that go out the side of the fridge, or is that a caulked connection?I think defrosting is really your problem, but making sure the fridge is well sealed will make it longer before ice builds up again, and making it well-insulated will keep the inside colder.

[Big Nake]

Are there any parts of the outside of the fridge that feel cold to the touch? Is there any air leaking around the lines that go out the side of the fridge, or is that a caulked connection?I think defrosting is really your problem, but making sure the fridge is well sealed will make it longer before ice builds up again, and making it well-insulated will keep the inside colder.

Thanks Dave. Yeah, when I drilled the holes for the lines, I felt around for cold air and felt none. But I could use some duct tape or something to help improve that a little bit. I don't feel any cold spots outside the fridge at all. I'm certainly not an expert on this topic and I feel lucky I was just able to get this fridge operating the way I wanted without killing myself or the fridge. I'm sure that it's suffering because of the ice buildup and also because it's not nearly as insulated as it should/could be. Thanks again... I will see if I can improve in those areas. Cheers.