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dry hopping and grassiness


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#21 denny

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 01:03 PM

I must have no taste buds...I use huge amounts of pungent dry hops, leave them in the keg for months. Either I don't get "grassiness" or I love it...I dunno which one. Maybe you guys are just hop wussies! :nono:

#22 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 01:24 PM

Since SF quoted me on the technique I described, id say it was my way.

in your quoted text you mention both methods. :nono: :rolf:

#23 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 01:27 PM

I must have no taste buds...I use huge amounts of pungent dry hops, leave them in the keg for months. Either I don't get "grassiness" or I love it...I dunno which one. Maybe you guys are just hop wussies! :chug:

:rolf: wait, wait, no I'm not!! :nono:

#24 MolBasser

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 06:35 PM

No. Nothing like I explained. Its a temp thing. You added the hops at 50* then chilled it again with the hops. Instead add the hops when the beer is at room temp and leave it at that temp for 3-5 days, then remove the hops before chilling again. You wont get the dry hop phenolics that way.

This doesn't seem to be the case with torpedoed beer.

True. Even tho the Torpedo has changed in flavor profile since it was first brewed, I agree that Magnum doesn't lend itself to grassiness more than any other hop. Its how you dryhop as I explained that makes the difference. Temp is everything.

My guess is it is the quality of the hops being used. Additionally, since pellets have been hammer milled all the goo inside them gets pelletized too. Whole cone hops will let the oils in the lupulin glands get in the beer, but the cell walls are intact, so you don't the as much grassy/cholophyl.MolBasser

#25 zymot

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 10:34 PM

My guess is it is the quality of the hops being used. Additionally, since pellets have been hammer milled all the goo inside them gets pelletized too. Whole cone hops will let the oils in the lupulin glands get in the beer, but the cell walls are intact, so you don't the as much grassy/cholophyl.MolBasser

That is an interesting hypothesis. I can concede that all the dry hopping I remember as being grassy used pellets. Let me think this one through..... The reason I picked up a fresh mowed lawn grassiness is because my hops were treated like a lawn freshly mowed. :rolf: :chug: :chug: YesI know what my next beer will be, some sort of IPA with whole hops for a dry hop. :nono:What is the worse that can happen? I make an IPA. Yeah, that would suck. :cheers:

#26 BlKtRe

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 06:03 AM

This doesn't seem to be the case with torpedoed beer.

Its a different technique that homebrewers cannot easily duplicate. Its still a time, temp, amount thing no matter how you look at it.

My guess is it is the quality of the hops being used. Additionally, since pellets have been hammer milled all the goo inside them gets pelletized too. Whole cone hops will let the oils in the lupulin glands get in the beer, but the cell walls are intact, so you don't the as much grassy/cholophyl.MolBasser

Quality is a good point. I always use whole cone because of your reasons listed.

#27 Stout_fan

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 06:45 AM

... add the hops when the beer is at room temp and leave it at that temp for 3-5 days, then remove the hops before chilling again. You wont get the dry hop phenolics that way. ...

OK, let me try this again. THIS is the way I do it.And although Denny dissed the marble approach IIRC, I sanitize a fine weave hop bag, a marble and unflavored dental floss in a small container of StarSan.DrainInsert hops and marble.Close the bag.Fold it over on itself and tie the bag absolutely shut. I use pellets.Then attach the dental floss to the cord and drop it into the keg. Lid on. tie floss to the cornie handle.Pull in 5 days.

#28 BlKtRe

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 06:50 AM

OK, let me try this again. THIS is the way I do it.And although Denny dissed the marble approach IIRC, I sanitize a fine weave hop bag, a marble and unflavored dental floss in a small container of StarSan.DrainInsert hops and marble.Close the bag.Fold it over on itself and tie the bag absolutely shut. I use pellets.Then attach the dental floss to the cord and drop it into the keg. Lid on. tie floss to the cornie handle.Pull in 5 days.

Sounds fine to me. What are your temps during dry hopping and the usual amount of hops used? Just to add this at the end of your technique list.

#29 denny

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 10:53 AM

And although Denny dissed the marble approach IIRC

I didn't diss it, I just said I found it unnecessary. I get the same results with or without weighting the hop bag, so why would I wanna do extra work? :facepalm:

#30 djinkc

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 11:03 AM

I didn't diss it, I just said I found it unnecessary. I get the same results with or without weighting the hop bag, so why would I wanna do extra work? Posted Image

I used to do that when dry hopping but I lost all my marbles.

#31 MolBasser

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 04:53 PM

Dang, my hop guy was busy today so I couldn't get the answers from him, but if anyone knows the answer to this question, it is he.I can tell you we dry hop traditionally without a torpedo for some beers (bigfoot and Cele) and I don't pick up grassy whether it was warm or cool dry hopped. Once again, all whole cone.I'll be sure to talk to my guy tomorrow.MolBasser

#32 BlKtRe

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 05:22 PM

Dang, my hop guy was busy today so I couldn't get the answers from him, but if anyone knows the answer to this question, it is he.I can tell you we dry hop traditionally without a torpedo for some beers (bigfoot and Cele) and I don't pick up grassy whether it was warm or cool dry hopped. Once again, all whole cone.I'll be sure to talk to my guy tomorrow.MolBasser

Please do. Also, correct me if im wrong, but i thought JZ did a podcast on this very issue and the results were to dryhop at warmer temps....

#33 MolBasser

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 05:55 PM

Please do. Also, correct me if im wrong, but i thought JZ did a podcast on this very issue and the results were to dryhop at warmer temps....

IIRC, the only difference between the two temps in trials we did was a little bit of percieved difference in "harshness" and grassiness did not enter in the equation.Like I said, I'll have to check. I'm betting dollars to doughnuts that it is from pelletization....MolBasser

#34 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 03:21 AM

IIRC, the only difference between the two temps in trials we did was a little bit of percieved difference in "harshness" and grassiness did not enter in the equation.Like I said, I'll have to check. I'm betting dollars to doughnuts that it is from pelletization....MolBasser

I'm actually starting to notice the grassiness (or maybe it is just harshness and I'm calling it the wrong thing???) is going away and all is becoming right with the world.

#35 Stout_fan

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 06:50 AM

OK, let me try this again. THIS is the way I do it.And although Denny dissed the marble approach IIRC, I sanitize a fine weave hop bag, a marble and unflavored dental floss in a small container of StarSan.DrainInsert 1 ounce of pellet hops and marble.Close the bag.Fold it over on itself and tie the bag absolutely shut. I use pellets.Then attach the dental floss to the cord and drop it into the keg. Lid on. tie floss to the cornie handle.Pull in 5 days.I dry hop at whatever the basement is. Typically 67-70°F



#36 MolBasser

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 09:35 PM

Yes, we understand how you do it.Thank you! :covreyes:MolBasser

#37 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 05:05 AM

Yes, we understand how you do it.Thank you! :stabby:MolBasser

:covreyes:

#38 Stout_fan

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 06:35 AM

Sounds fine to me. What are your temps during dry hopping and the usual amount of hops used? Just to add this at the end of your technique list.

Yes, we understand how you do it.Thank you! :covreyes:MolBasser

MB: Bite me

Edited by Stout_fan, 20 May 2010 - 06:37 AM.



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