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Mixing propellers for HLT


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#1 Doomsday Brewery

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 10:36 AM

I have a HLT made from a 15.5 gallon keg. I installed a hot water heater element in the side of the keg and a Johnson A419 controller to control the heater element. I have a gear motor that turns 60 RPMs to mix the water so that it is evenly heated but I do not have a mixing propeller yet. I found two one is 3 ¾ inch diameter and the other is 7 ¼ . It will be mounted on a 16 inch shaft. I am not sure which one of these propellers to use based on the speed of the motor and the size of the keg any ideas? Also I have a float switch near the bottom that will switch a relay to cut the power to the heater element before the water level gets to low and exposes the element. So I am a little concerned that the vortex or downward flow might push the float down a shut off the heater by accident but I will not know that until I connect it all up.

#2 stangbat

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 11:05 AM

Here's my stirrer. It is just 1/2" copper tubing sweated together and held to the motor shaft with a couple of screws. The small screw goes into the slot on the motor's shaft and the large screw rests against the flat part of the shaft. I can pick up the motor and lid from the stir bar and it holds tight. It has worked fine for two years. My motor is also 60 rpm.Posted ImagePosted Image

#3 Doomsday Brewery

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 11:13 AM

Here's my stirrer. It is just 1/2" copper tubing sweated together and held to the motor shaft with a couple of screws. The small screw goes into the slot on the motor's shaft and the large screw rests against the flat part of the shaft. I can pick up the motor and lid from the stir bar and it holds tight. It has worked fine for two years. My motor is also 60 rpm.Posted ImagePosted Image

Thanks it looks great how long is the copper shaft and does it move al lot of water?

#4 djinkc

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 11:26 AM

Mine's similar to Stangbats. I didn't solder the blades though, just fitted it together and tapped it with a hammer for a friction fit. That way the pitch of the blades can be changed - so it can move a lot or a little water.

#5 stangbat

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 11:30 AM

Thanks it looks great how long is the copper shaft and does it move al lot of water?

It moves enough to break up the stratification. The temp in the HLT goes up almost instantly once you turn it on. You don't need much to get things stirred up. I'm not sure how it would effect your float switch though. I need to add a float switch to my HLT because I've burnt up two elements.The main reason I sweated the blades together is because I wasn't sure if the motor would leak any grease when operating. If any grease leaks out of the shaft seal of the motor, it will fall down the tube of the stirrer and be caught inside. It will never make it into my water and into my beer.

#6 Doomsday Brewery

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 11:58 AM

It moves enough to break up the stratification. The temp in the HLT goes up almost instantly once you turn it on. You don't need much to get things stirred up. I'm not sure how it would effect your float switch though. I need to add a float switch to my HLT because I've burnt up two elements.The main reason I sweated the blades together is because I wasn't sure if the motor would leak any grease when operating. If any grease leaks out of the shaft seal of the motor, it will fall down the tube of the stirrer and be caught inside. It will never make it into my water and into my beer.

I got my float switch and relay for the same company on ebay. The float switch is SS and very good quality the Float switch as $15 and the relay was $6


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