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How to build a bleeder valve?


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#1 Deerslyr

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 01:40 PM

So in an effort to improve my techniques and not just "wing it" when it comes to carbonating, I looked at the FAQ. It was suggested to have a bleeder valve with a regulator on it. Has anyone built one and can I get detailed instructions, complete with a pick-list?

#2 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 02:44 PM

Posted ImageLooks pretty cut and dry to me.Posted Imageget an extra pin/ball lock with a threaded end (1/4"), an adapter to go from that to the gauge, the gauge (obviously), and then the valve.My bet is that you can buy the adapter and the valve from Lowes or HD pretty readily. The gauge and the lock I would get online. My guess is maybe about $20 at the most for everything.Cheers,RichEdit, might need a T as well if the gauge doesnt have one on it already.

Edited by rcemech, 06 May 2010 - 02:45 PM.


#3 No Party JKor

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 03:32 PM

Why do you need this again?Just set your regulator to the desired pressure and let the beer carb up. If you're impatient, rock the keg with the gas hooked up until it won't take any more gas.

#4 Deerslyr

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 04:41 PM

Why do you need this again?Just set your regulator to the desired pressure and let the beer carb up. If you're impatient, rock the keg with the gas hooked up until it won't take any more gas.

<scratches head>The FAQ seemed to make some pretty good sense a couple of hours ago... besides... I haven't "built" anything for my brewery in a while. The last upgrade was the chest freezer and controller, but that was, well... boring. I need a DIY project dangit! :blink:

#5 stangbat

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 08:03 PM

I have one and I've only used it when I wanted to carb a keg quickly. Which has been only a handful of times. Otherwise I just set it and forget it as JKoravos said.I got mine from NB back when they were probably $5 cheaper than they are now. At the time it was less expensive to buy it from them than if I tried to piece it together at the hardware store. Don't know if that is still the case but it may be.

Edited by stangbat, 06 May 2010 - 08:04 PM.


#6 MtnBrewer

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 07:47 AM

As I understand it, you only need one if you're using some form of fast force carbonation. If you do as JKoravos recommends, you don't need it. But if you use overpressure, you can't let the beer reach equilibrium or else it'll be too carbonated. So the gauge allows you to see how much CO2 is really in the beer.

#7 Deerslyr

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 10:54 AM

I've been impatient and I've probably been actually overcarbing. I want to learn how to effectively carb it quicker in case I need to (and right now I need to as I have nothing in kegs and I'll be racking a beer next weekend).May check out one of the retailers to see what they are selling for.

#8 gnef

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 12:54 PM

I have built two, almost. I need to get a gauge to put on the second one, and it will be good to go. I built two since I have a mix of pin and ball lock kegs, I didn't want to always have to swap the disconnect.For me, the reason I built them was because I have so many kegs, that some are in the chest freezers, kegerators, and many are at room temp. I want to periodically check the pressures on the kegs to see how many volumes of CO2 are in solution, and if there have been any leaks on any of the kegs that I've had aging for an extended period of time.

#9 BlKtRe

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 12:59 PM

I use mine to go down the line of kegs checking pressures after they have been carbed to make sure things are looking pretty, just like gnef.

#10 tag

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 03:32 PM

I use mine to counterpressure transfer carbed beer from corny to corny.I found some 1/4" Female flare - 1/4" Male NPT fittings that I used instead of the jumper flare fittings. I had to buy like 10 if you need one.

#11 Deerslyr

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 04:31 PM

Went ahead and purchased one from Midwest for $22. Also got a pound of cascade pellets for around $20 as well.

#12 BlKtRe

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Posted 07 May 2010 - 07:25 PM

You can buy one for almost the same price as building one Ive found.

#13 realbeerguy

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 08:46 AM

I use mine to counterpressure transfer carbed beer from corny to corny.I found some 1/4" Female flare - 1/4" Male NPT fittings that I used instead of the jumper flare fittings. I had to buy like 10 if you need one.

I use this from Grainger on the end instead of the bleed valve for counterpressure filling. Valve,Relief,1/4 InItem # 5Z763Vacuum/Pressure Relief Valve, MNPT Inlet 1/4 In, Flow Capacity 0-2 CFM, Pressure Range 0 to 20 PSI, Vacuum Range 0 to 30 Inches Hg, Max Temp 250 F

#14 tag

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Posted 08 May 2010 - 09:43 AM

I love those! I have one on my keg pressure tester and my counterpressure bottle filler too.


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