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#1 Big Nake

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 06:11 PM

So I put this new system together where I now have two Co2 tanks in the fridge along with 4 kegs. The 2 tanks are split with a simple "T" and the gas lines are wedged on there (they were pretty tough to push on). I asked the guy at the LHBS about clamping them down (and also the beer lines which are connected directly to the nipple at the end of the shank) and he said that the connections should be very secure just pushing the tubing on. The one tank was already very low on gas anyway and is lower now. The other one was filled recently and appears to be okay. Does anyone have a feel for whether gas line should be clamped onto a "T"?Also, I never really had a problem balancing my old system. I adjusted the PSI a few times and bingo! it was fine. But this is a different animal and I've seen a hundred methods for balancing the system. The middle of the kegs are about 1½ feet below the faucets and there is 5' of 3/16" diameter beer line. The beer is pretty cold (34°-ish) and one tank (serving taps 1 and 2) seems okay while the other tank (taps 3 and 4) seems foamy. Anyone have a good, solid method for this? Cheers guys!

#2 gnef

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 06:18 PM

If in doubt, put clamps on. It is pretty easy to check for leaks though. I would disconnect the QD's from the kegs, and see if the system will hold pressure overnight, if it doesn't, start eliminating sections to isolate where the leak could be. I personally use stepless oetiker clamps on everything now, and find that they have the most secure hold on the tubing out of the different types of clamps.As for balancing, I generally use more than 5' of line.Also, are your shanks and line insulated outside of the fridge? If you pour two or three beers right after another, are they all foamy, or just the first one? If just the first one, I tend to think your faucet/shank/tubing outside of the fridge is warming up.

#3 Big Nake

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 07:00 PM

Strange about the length of the tubing because I just took my old draft fridge apart (it had a double-tower) and there couldn't have been more than 3' of liquid-out line connected to the tower and I never had any trouble with that system. I may also just take my gas lines (where the T is inserted) and just dunk it into a bucket of Starsan and see if it starts bubbling. These connections all went together with some serious force so it seems unlikely that anything would leak, but better to be safe.Also, the beer line that is outside the fridge is only about 4-6" and I did find some nice insulating foam to put around it. It's not just the first beer on these 2 taps, it's all of them for some reason. Cheers.

#4 Dave in Indiana

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 07:23 PM

Ken - Have you seen this?Posted Imagepdf of the manual: https://draughtquali...f/DBQM_Full.pdf

#5 gnef

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Posted 28 March 2010 - 07:58 PM

what is your temperature and pressure? I assume you trust your pressure gauges?How quickly do you pour a pint, or does it completely foam up to where you can't really pour a full pint? If so, how long does that take?

#6 Big Nake

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 06:15 AM

what is your temperature and pressure? I assume you trust your pressure gauges?How quickly do you pour a pint, or does it completely foam up to where you can't really pour a full pint? If so, how long does that take?

Dave: Thanks for the link... I will definitely check that out.Gnef: The beer is pouring with a cloudy look... it's not all foam all the time, it's just very cloudy looking. Then you end up with about half a glass or slightly less of foam and when you look at the beer in the glass, it's crystal clear. Again, this tank is showing almost no gas and I believe it's due for a refill. I have a spare tank and I would just have to connect the regulator from the almost-empty tank because it's got the double gas-out. It appears that the 2 lines connected to this tank are completely empty when a beer is not being tapped which suggests that the pressure is too low. On my old system, I would notice a small air bubble in the line... but this is different. It would also make sense that I need to increase the pressure. I will look into all of these things and report back. Cheers!

#7 Thirsty

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 07:21 AM

Gnef: The beer is pouring with a cloudy look... it's not all foam all the time, it's just very cloudy looking. Then you end up with about half a glass or slightly less of foam and when you look at the beer in the glass, it's crystal clear.

It may also just take a few days for the kegs to settle down. All the excitement of going into a new fridge could have them all worked up! Seriously, I ahve moved some kegs around even just a few feet, and when cold, they disturb and get cloudy or foamy easily. Also, was there a period of time where they sat outside of the fridge for a while? Perhaps as they warmed up, some CO2 came out of solution into the headspace creating more pressure. Kust brainstorming other possibilities.

#8 Big Nake

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 04:22 PM

I took both of my gas lines (where the T was located) and submerged them into a bucket of Starsan solution and I saw NO BUBBLES. Seem like a good verification? The tank was open and the reg was set but the lines were disconnected from the kegs. Still should be gas flowing through the lines though, right?

#9 stlinch

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 05:36 PM

You may have a leak at the QD's. Why do you have 2 co2 tank in the frig?

#10 Big Nake

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 05:46 PM

You may have a leak at the QD's. Why do you have 2 co2 tank in the frig?

It looks like I have everything balanced. I checked the Co2 lines and there are no leaks and the liquid lines are also solid. I have 2 tanks in the fridge because I just so happened to buy all of my draft equipment in stages and I now have three 5-lb tanks. I put two in the draft fridge (both serve 2 kegs each) and I have an additional tank which I use to carb up the "on-deck" kegs and sometimes I'll use that tank for bottling as well. Cheers!

#11 tag

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 06:55 PM

Why did you connect 2 CO2 tanks? No need to do that. The only thing it will do is have you run out of 2 tanks at a time rather than 1.

#12 Big Nake

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 08:19 PM

Why did you connect 2 CO2 tanks? No need to do that. The only thing it will do is have you run out of 2 tanks at a time rather than 1.

I'm not following. I have 4 taps and I have three 5-lb tanks. I use 2 tanks to run the 4 faucets and I use the third tank to carb up the on-deck kegs. What would be the better way for me to do it?

#13 stlinch

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Posted 03 April 2010 - 08:59 AM

Why not 1 tank to run the 4 taps? You might could get a 5th in the space the 2nd co2 is taking up.

#14 Big Nake

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Posted 03 April 2010 - 09:12 AM

Why not 1 tank to run the 4 taps? You might could get a 5th in the space the 2nd co2 is taking up.

My thinking is that one 5-lb tank running 4 kegs would empty quicker and since I have three tanks total (all fivers), it would be better to have two tanks serving 4 faucets which would cut down on trips to refill the tanks. I thought it was the most efficient way to do it. As far as the 5th keg, I did have another local brewer suggest that, but I went from 2 taps to 4 and thought that was an excellent upgrade. 5 would be cool and I could possibly squeeze a 5th keg in there, but I'm really happy with 4.

#15 Thirsty

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Posted 03 April 2010 - 09:57 AM

My thinking is that one 5-lb tank running 4 kegs would empty quicker and since I have three tanks total (all fivers), it would be better to have two tanks serving 4 faucets which would cut down on trips to refill the tanks.

If you have the room to do it, why not? It is essentially like having a dual regulator setup, you can now run different pressures. You may want to serve a mild or something at 1.5-2.0 vols, while you could serve a dubbel at 3.0 vols in the very same fridge. As long as you have that extra tank for utility work- carbing, gunning and purging, you have the best of 3 worlds. And if a tank kicks, you could just rotate your utility tank into the empty spot and go fill.

#16 Big Nake

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Posted 03 April 2010 - 11:00 AM

If you have the room to do it, why not? It is essentially like having a dual regulator setup, you can now run different pressures. You may want to serve a mild or something at 1.5-2.0 vols, while you could serve a dubbel at 3.0 vols in the very same fridge. As long as you have that extra tank for utility work- carbing, gunning and purging, you have the best of 3 worlds. And if a tank kicks, you could just rotate your utility tank into the empty spot and go fill.

Yes, sir. We're on the same page. That's exactly what I do... when one of the serving tanks goes, the backup tank steps in and the empty tank goes for refilling. Thank you for confirming my thinking... I thought I missed something. :stabby:

#17 stlinch

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 06:04 AM

With my luck I would end up with 3 empty tanks. So what do you have on tap? I keep an stout, pale ale/bitter, cream ale (for the g/f) and a IPA.

#18 Big Nake

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 06:22 AM

Whatever I brew will eventually end up on tap. Right now it's a Mexican Vienna Lager, a Red Ale, a Cerveza Clara and an Amber Ale. In the on-deck fridge, there is a pale ale and an amber lager.When I had the double-tower draft fridge, I had one 5-lb tank on each of the kegs and then I had the additional tank for carbing up other kegs, etc. When you have 2 tanks serving 2 kegs at 10-12psi, those tanks last a very long time... like a year or something. I know that many people would prefer 10 or 20 lb tanks, but I never ran across the perfect situation where you could pick up a big tank for less cash. I also happen to have a Co2 refilling place (a fire extinguisher maintenance company) about 5 minutes from my house which makes it relatively easy for refills.

#19 jammer

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 07:37 AM

Ken - Have you seen this?pdf of the manual: https://draughtquali...f/DBQM_Full.pdf

Nice. Thanks for the link.


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