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Using "RO" water


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#1 CaptRon

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 11:15 AM

So I was talking to the guys at my lhbs yesterday and they said that our water is not the best for brewing much of anything other than dark beers. Said that the high levels of chlorine and some minerals . He said that using "ro" water and then adding my own minerals an such are the way to go. Do any of you guys do this? What tips can you guys share about what to put in that would be good?

#2 Michael

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:14 PM

Personally, if my water was that bad, I'd just go to Safeway and use the machine to get 10 gallons out of the water machine. Think it's 50 cents a gallon, so that may be easier.

#3 MyaCullen

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:42 PM

Personally, if my water was that bad, I'd just go to Safeway and use the machine to get 10 gallons out of the water machine. Think it's 50 cents a gallon, so that may be easier.

that's R.O. waterbaddog, I do this on lighter, ie pilsner, hefe and the like, I use Palmer's spreadsheet to adjust the water chemistry where I want it for style and color.Water here in Spokane Valley is well suited for darker pales up to brown porters but has to be adjusted or diluted for stouts or pales.edit to add link Palmer's Spreadsheet from "How to Brew"

Edited by miccullen, 07 March 2010 - 12:44 PM.


#4 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:49 PM

Personally, if my water was that bad, I'd just go to Safeway and use the machine to get 10 gallons out of the water machine. Think it's 50 cents a gallon, so that may be easier.

I'd try and find a friend close by that had better water for brewing and just go pick some up.

#5 Michael

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 01:04 PM

Sorry, brain fart, I was thinking DI water. Brain is in lab mode.

#6 gnef

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 02:45 PM

I had to do this when I was still living in Texas. The water was extremely hard, but it would also be bad to use softened water, so I decided to work with RO water and rebuild my water profiles from scratch. I used Palmer's guidelines to establish my own water profiles per what characteristics I wanted, and mash pH. I bought all the salts I needed at the lhbs, and had a scale that went to .1g, so I was able to get my ions exactly as I wanted. I was able to produce good beer this way, and it helped me understand more about water chemistry as it relates to all-grain brewing.

#7 MyaCullen

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 02:50 PM

Sorry, brain fart, I was thinking DI water. Brain is in lab mode.

I can also get DI water for free from work

#8 orudis

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:14 PM

I'd try and find a friend close by that had better water for brewing and just go pick some up.

chances are, anyone nearby is going to have the same water. For stouts I use our very hard water but for everything else I use a mix of RO water and tap water. The palmer spreadsheet or one like it will help you get your ions right. If you search my name and spreadsheet you will probably find the one I use, I've posted it here before

#9 tag

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 09:05 PM

Call your local water board and get the water info that you'll need to know for brewing: calcium, magnesium, sodium, carbonates/alkalinity, sulfates, chloride, and chlorine/chloramine.

#10 MyaCullen

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 09:34 PM

Call your local water board and get the water info that you'll need to know for brewing: calcium, magnesium, sodium, carbonates/alkalinity, sulfates, chloride, and chlorine/chloramine.

or if they are unwilling, send a sample off to Ward Labs for analysislinkI believe it is the w-6 household mineral testwhich is $16.50

#11 beach

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 02:22 PM

Call your local water board and get the water info that you'll need to know for brewing: calcium, magnesium, sodium, carbonates/alkalinity, sulfates, chloride, and chlorine/chloramine.

I contacted my city water department a few months ago and the guy told me they don't test for those. I couldn't believe it, they test for everything but those. Oh, he did tell me they use chloramine. Posted Image Beach

#12 shmgeggie

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 06:10 PM

that's R.O. waterbaddog, I do this on lighter, ie pilsner, hefe and the like, I use Palmer's spreadsheet to adjust the water chemistry where I want it for style and color.Water here in Spokane Valley is well suited for darker pales up to brown porters but has to be adjusted or diluted for stouts or pales.edit to add link Palmer's Spreadsheet from "How to Brew"

Do you have the numbers on Spokane water? If so, please post.

#13 MolBasser

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:15 PM

that's R.O. waterbaddog, I do this on lighter, ie pilsner, hefe and the like, I use Palmer's spreadsheet to adjust the water chemistry where I want it for style and color.Water here in Spokane Valley is well suited for darker pales up to brown porters but has to be adjusted or diluted for stouts or pales.edit to add link Palmer's Spreadsheet from "How to Brew"

I doubt those machines are RO. Most likely DI.MolBasser

#14 MyaCullen

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:38 PM

Do you have the numbers on Spokane water? If so, please post.

I did, in the water thread

#15 MyaCullen

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:39 PM

I doubt those machines are RO. Most likely DI.MolBasser

I can only tell you what the machine says on the label on the front

#16 MolBasser

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:47 PM

It might be. RO membranes are very expensive though, that is the source of my doubts.Meh, it could be so, I have never used one of the machines, I should check one out.MolBasser

#17 MyaCullen

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 07:49 PM

It might be. RO membranes are very expensive though, that is the source of my doubts.Meh, it could be so, I have never used one of the machines, I should check one out.MolBasser

I sometimes use DI water too, so mehhh

#18 shmgeggie

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 05:13 PM

I did, in the water thread

Just saw that. Thanks. :smilielol:


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