9 replies to this topic

[Corbin]

My first question I ask without knowing yet if these components can be found and made to work but can I use CPVC ball valves to put on my pump? $100 in SS ball valves really isn't in the budget and I just don't like brass coming in contact with my wort. Second I don't have a RIMS or HERMS just a simple cooler garage set up. I plan on using the pump to help move liquids and to vorlouf. Instead of just taking out 2qts with a pitcher I was going to recirculate for 15 minutes after the mash process is finished. Does anyone see a problem with this?

[TimE]

Regarding the second question, this is how I run my system now and don't have any problems. I add the mashout water, give it a quick stir and then let it recirculate for 10 minutes or so and switch the outlet over the kettle. To do the batch sparge, I add the sparge water and immediately begin recirculating for another 10 minutes or so. Quick and easy.I don't know about PVC in line, I have 2 SS ball valves. One is on the cooler and the other is on the pump outlet, I then have self sealing SS quick disconnects on the mashtun and kettle inlets so I can just move the outlet hose from the mashtun directly to the boil kettle to transfer.

[Corbin]

Regarding the second question, this is how I run my system now and don't have any problems. I add the mashout water, give it a quick stir and then let it recirculate for 10 minutes or so and switch the outlet over the kettle. To do the batch sparge, I add the sparge water and immediately begin recirculating for another 10 minutes or so. Quick and easy.I don't know about PVC in line, I have 2 SS ball valves. One is on the cooler and the other is on the pump outlet, I then have self sealing SS quick disconnects on the mashtun and kettle inlets so I can just move the outlet hose from the mashtun directly to the boil kettle to transfer.

Do you ever have trouble getting the pump to prime. I have seen a lot of setups where on the outlet they have a tee with one ball valve going to the side and one going straight up with the hose attached. The one facing to the side is there to purge the air out of the line right when you get it started. Is this overkill?

[Deerslyr]

My first question I ask without knowing yet if these components can be found and made to work but can I use CPVC ball valves to put on my pump? $100 in SS ball valves really isn't in the budget and I just don't like brass coming in contact with my wort. Second I don't have a RIMS or HERMS just a simple cooler garage set up. I plan on using the pump to help move liquids and to vorlouf. Instead of just taking out 2qts with a pitcher I was going to recirculate for 15 minutes after the mash process is finished. Does anyone see a problem with this?

I don't know why you couldn't use a cpvc ball valve. I just don't know how durable it will be in the long run. As for the second question, I think we have a similar setup. I use my pump (wich is attached to a float switch) to do my fly sparging. I usually use a gallon pitcher to vorlauf... now I'm thinking I'll just add some of the sparge water and recirculate for a bit and then hook the HLT back to the pump and fly sparge per normal. I actually forgot to vorlauf on my last batch this last weekend. Knew I was forgetting something.

[TimE]

Do you ever have trouble getting the pump to prime. I have seen a lot of setups where on the outlet they have a tee with one ball valve going to the side and one going straight up with the hose attached. The one facing to the side is there to purge the air out of the line right when you get it started. Is this overkill?

Depends on who you talk to if it is overkill or not. Personally I do not feel it is necessary, I can get it to prime just fine by opening the mashtun outlet and letting the hose fill somewhat before connecting the return. I then close down the valve on the pump outlet, turn on the pump and slowly open the outlet valve until I have sufficient flow. This valve is usually no more than 25% open. You want to make sure you have the mashtun outlet valve open all of the way so you are not starving the pump.T

[djinkc]

Do you ever have trouble getting the pump to prime. I have seen a lot of setups where on the outlet they have a tee with one ball valve going to the side and one going straight up with the hose attached. The one facing to the side is there to purge the air out of the line right when you get it started. Is this overkill?

You'll want a bleeder valve. I have my inlet at 12:00, outlet and bleeder to the side at 6:00. Works fine here and lets the pump drain nicely when I'm done. With a little practice it's easy to prime and keep the prime. Using the pump to vorlauf is a great idea. I'm recirculating with a herms but it's nice to just switch to filling the kettle when the recirc is done - crystal clear. Nothing wrong with brass though - I have a lot. It works fine. I think cpvc would wear out and I would worry about scratches if it's used post boil.

[Corbin]

You'll want a bleeder valve. I have my inlet at 12:00, outlet and bleeder to the side at 6:00. Works fine here and lets the pump drain nicely when I'm done. With a little practice it's easy to prime and keep the prime. Using the pump to vorlauf is a great idea. I'm recirculating with a herms but it's nice to just switch to filling the kettle when the recirc is done - crystal clear. Nothing wrong with brass though - I have a lot. It works fine. I think cpvc would wear out and I would worry about scratches if it's used post boil.

Dj I have always heard that the inlet should be at 6 o'clock and outlet should be at 12. So this has worked for you? Would you mind posting pictures if you have any? Thanks for all of the help guys.

[Deerslyr]

Dj I have always heard that the inlet should be at 6 o'clock and outlet should be at 12. So this has worked for you? Would you mind posting pictures if you have any? Thanks for all of the help guys.

I have my inlet at 6:00 and my outlet at 12:00. I have a T at the 12, with a shut off valve and then a pipe that goes up through the table top (where I attach my sparge arm with a short piece of tubing. Just above the T, I also have a ball valve so I can control where the water flows. I use the lower one as the bleeder valve, but then it also doubles as the outlet to go the the plate chiller.

[djinkc]

Dj I have always heard that the inlet should be at 6 o'clock and outlet should be at 12. So this has worked for you? Would you mind posting pictures if you have any? Thanks for all of the help guys.

https://www.brews-bros.xyz/[IMG]https://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab348/kcbrew/DSCF0022.jpgI don't know why my photobucket pics won't show here. They used to. It's really simple, straight into the pump at 12:00. And at 6:00 I was wrong. The bleeder goes straight down (into a bucket) and return liquid is teed off horizontal from the 6:00 - both have valves. Everyone says it's wrong. But it works fine with very little practice

Edited by dj in kc, 23 February 2010 - 05:48 PM.

[Thirsty]

Everyone says it's wrong. But it works fine with very little practice

I think as long as the inlet is above the source it is pumping from, and you allow the head to flood, there shouldnt be any issue. FWIW, the pump head removes with the 4 external screws and can rotate 360 degrees in 90 degree increments without changing the pump orientation itself.