Bottling a barley wine
#1
Posted 01 January 2010 - 06:37 PM
#2
Posted 01 January 2010 - 09:20 PM
#3
Posted 01 January 2010 - 10:04 PM
#4
Posted 02 January 2010 - 07:17 AM
I've done that before but only with something that will be drank fairly quickly. Can you use this method for something that is going to be stored for a couple of years? I don't have a counter pressure filler and would be doing it using the hose attached to a picnic tap method.why are you priming it? why not just force carbonate and bottle from the keg it's in now?sounds like you're making extra work for yourself.
#5
Posted 02 January 2010 - 07:18 AM
This is what I was thinking. You'll probably get better carbonation this way than expecing a small amount of yeast to work in a high alcohol environment.why are you priming it? why not just force carbonate and bottle from the keg it's in now?sounds like you're making extra work for yourself.
#6
Posted 02 January 2010 - 08:30 AM
Since you plan on aging for years, I would not recommend bottling without purging the bottle with CO2 first using a counter pressure filler. This applies to force carbonation and priming.I've done that before but only with something that will be drank fairly quickly. Can you use this method for something that is going to be stored for a couple of years? I don't have a counter pressure filler and would be doing it using the hose attached to a picnic tap method.
#7
Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:56 AM
#8
Posted 02 January 2010 - 11:28 AM
#9
Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:20 PM
You should be ok since you probably are going to cellar it for a while. Pop open one about 3-4 months after bottling to give you an idea about how the carbonation is progerssing. I've used DME in the past. The BW's have a nice thick head, and the aging has given it sherry-like notes.I brewed a barley wine in May 2009...it ended up around 11%. It's been conditioning in a keg since June and I'm ready to bottle (I need the keg). I was thinking that I will add my priming solution to a new keg, add about 1/3 pack of hydrated yeast (us-05), transfer the beer into the new keg (on top of the yeast and priming solution to mix), then bottle from there. You guys see any problems with this approach?
#10
Posted 03 January 2010 - 08:47 AM
Woah man, settle down.Maybe you missed the part of his post where he asks for our opinions? Or the part where he wonders if the hose on picnic tap method would work for aging many years?None of the replies in this thread were in any way rude, so I don't know why you're getting angry. We were just posting from personal experience, and giving some friendly advice for the OP to consider.Given that it REALLY looks like the OP wants to NATURALLY CARBONATE his barleywine, I think the process is fine. I know ya'll "love" force carbonating bottles, buts its a PITA to do. So how about when someone says that they want to naturally carbonate you don't force your methods and castigate someone for doing it the other way? Not everyone has the setup to do it, nor does everyone want to have it.
#11
Posted 03 January 2010 - 10:46 AM
I just let it go, I know a lot of threads quickly get off topic so I assumed he thought it was another of them. I tried researching the alcohol tolerance of US-05 and couldn't find it, but I still suspect 11% is on the high end. Last thing you want to age beer for months and then find out they didn't carb. If natural carb is needed for these I would at least suggest a high alcohol tolerance yeast.Woah man, settle down.Maybe you missed the part of his post where he asks for our opinions? Or the part where he wonders if the hose on picnic tap method would work for aging many years?None of the replies in this thread were in any way rude, so I don't know why you're getting angry. We were just posting from personal experience, and giving some friendly advice for the OP to consider.
#12
Posted 03 January 2010 - 12:47 PM
#13
Posted 03 January 2010 - 12:50 PM
#14
Posted 03 January 2010 - 01:38 PM
#15
Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:27 PM
I hadn't even thought of this...I thought US-05 could do everything I couldn't find anything on US-05 either, but I looked up Wyeast 1056 (listed at 10%) and White Labs 001 (listed at 10-15%), so this would probably be pushing it.Anyone have a recommendation for high tolerance bottling yeast? Wyeast's website lists 1762 (Belgian Abbey II) and 1728 (Scottish Ale) as suitable yeast strains for a barley wine and both are tolerant to 12%. I don't suppose I would get much flavor from bottle conditioning would I?I tried researching the alcohol tolerance of US-05 and couldn't find it, but I still suspect 11% is on the high end. Last thing you want to age beer for months and then find out they didn't carb. If natural carb is needed for these I would at least suggest a high alcohol tolerance yeast.
#16
Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:34 PM
I had a BW that wouldn't finish fermenting and making a starter of 099, WL High Grav yeast. It finished way on down there and carb the bottles perfectly.Thanks to everyone for the advice. Well, the situation has changed a little...I had a keg kick Sat. night, so the immediate need for the keg is gone for now, but I still need to figure out what to do with this beer. I really wanted to avoid kegging it because it will take me a while to drink and I only have room for three kegs in my fridge. It sounds a little risky trying to bottle it though.I hadn't even thought of this...I thought US-05 could do everything I couldn't find anything on US-05 either, but I looked up Wyeast 1056 (listed at 10%) and White Labs 001 (listed at 10-15%), so this would probably be pushing it.Anyone have a recommendation for high tolerance bottling yeast? Wyeast's website lists 1762 (Belgian Abbey II) and 1728 (Scottish Ale) as suitable yeast strains for a barley wine and both are tolerant to 12%. I don't suppose I would get much flavor from bottle conditioning would I?
#17
Posted 04 January 2010 - 07:54 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users