13 replies to this topic

[Fatman]

I finally got my new kegerator all put together, and I've been brewing like mad lately to get it filled by May. One final problem remains - I have a slow leak somewhere in the system. Can't hear anything, and I've fixed everything that I can detect with my spray bottle of StarSan. It's real slow - I pressurize the system and then turn off the gas (so as not to waste) 5-10 minutes later all my secondary regulators still read pressure. 2-3 hours later they are at zero. This is with no kegs attached, so it can't be going into the beer. How do I hunt down those last little leaks?(I've got a hunch the leak is in one or both of the 1/4" MFT's I've got on either side of the (HBA - looks like the Austin Homebrew) bulkhead. The leak was fast there, and I added plastic washers and that at least stopped the fast leak. Are there rubber washers, or some other trick for this connection?)

[Kansan]

I have had problems with hose clamps just whispering out pressure so slow as not to show with a bubble test... Fiddled with lots of hose clamp solutions and came up with the Oetiker Stepless clamp as being the best all around solution and have not had one problem since. You need a nail pincher to install but there will never be a problem at that juncture.https://www.oetiker....?l=4&idNavig=17If you are using plastic QDs you should not need to use another washer. Two washers are never better that one (well, maybe a toilet floor wax seal...). Just make sure the one is in good shape.I had an ever-so slow leak problem that was giving me a heck of a time last year, and just could not find the closed system leak. I got a rebuild kit for my regulator, $12, and the problem went away. Some times we look all over the lines and kegs for a leak and forget about all the seals and diaphragms that a nested inside the regulator itself.Good luck, and happy hunting.

[3rd party JKor]

I've used Star-San as a leak detector in the past, but that was only for fairly obvious leaks. Star-San dries up pretty quick. You may need a better leak detector. I've used Snoop before and it works pretty well. Before you even go down that route, you may just want to go through a process of elimination approach. First, block off the system at the regulator outlet and see if it maintains pressure, then add your manifold and see if it maintains pressure, repeat until you've added all your components. You should, at the very least, be able to narrow the culprit down to a few connections.

[Stout_fan]

...Before you even go down that route, you may just want to go through a process of elimination approach. First, block off the system at the regulator outlet and see if it maintains pressure, ...

Yep, I'd be getting some 1/4" pipe plugs and teflon tape ready.

[Fatman]

Thanks for the ideas - I think I'm going to pick up some of NB's gas leak detector. If I want to test step-by-step, how do I properly block off the rest of the unit - what is a pipe plug?The only place I'm confident the leak is not is the regulator - I have a QD between the regulator and the fridge. I undid the QD, and the bottle (off) + regulator + QD has held pressure for a few days now.

[Thirsty]

I pressurize the system and then turn off the gas (so as not to waste) 5-10 minutes later all my secondary regulators still read pressure. 2-3 hours later they are at zero. This is with no kegs attached, so it can't be going into the beer.

If there are no kegs hooked up, are your gas lines just ending in QD's unattached? If so, it can be leaking out of your QD, not attached they will leak when not connected to opposing pressure. I lost a 20# tank like that over a couple weeks, disconnected one line while waiting for a keg, and wound up with an empty tank.

[3rd party JKor]

Thanks for the ideas - I think I'm going to pick up some of NB's gas leak detector. If I want to test step-by-step, how do I properly block off the rest of the unit - what is a pipe plug?The only place I'm confident the leak is not is the regulator - I have a QD between the regulator and the fridge. I undid the QD, and the bottle (off) + regulator + QD has held pressure for a few days now.

Pipe plug...

[Fatman]

If there are no kegs hooked up, are your gas lines just ending in QD's unattached? If so, it can be leaking out of your QD, not attached they will leak when not connected to opposing pressure. I lost a 20# tank like that over a couple weeks, disconnected one line while waiting for a keg, and wound up with an empty tank.

The gas line goes through a completed QD connection, through a HBA bulkhead into the fridge, into a 4 secondary regulator panel, and from each regulator into a one-way valve and then a grey gas corny keg connection. I think it's the bulkhead - gas line connections. Where is the seal on those (I think its a Flare fitting)? On the threads or at the hole? Should I just try beefing up on the Telfon tape? I used one loop/thickness. I'm seeing stuff that recommends 5+.

[stellarbrew]

The gas line goes through a completed QD connection, through a HBA bulkhead into the fridge, into a 4 secondary regulator panel, and from each regulator into a one-way valve and then a grey gas corny keg connection. I think it's the bulkhead - gas line connections. Where is the seal on those (I think its a Flare fitting)? On the threads or at the hole? Should I just try beefing up on the Telfon tape? I used one loop/thickness. I'm seeing stuff that recommends 5+.

At least 3 wraps on brass, and at least 5 wraps on stainless for NPT threads. If it's a flare fitting, you really shouldn't be using any thread sealant.

Edited by stellarbrew, 14 April 2009 - 06:02 PM.

[Fatman]

At least 3 wraps on brass, and at least 5 wraps on stainless for NPT threads. If it's a flare fitting, you really shouldn't be using any thread sealant.

This is what I have:https://www.homebrew.....Code=#14BHA-4a/k/ahttps://www.austinho...oducts_id=10234I got the little plastic washers from NB to fit in there. So don't use Teflon tape?

[3rd party JKor]

those are flare fittings, no teflon tape needed.

[Fatman]

those are flare fittings, no teflon tape needed.

So how do you get an airtight seal with a flare fitting?

[stellarbrew]

So how do you get an airtight seal with a flare fitting?

With a flare fitting, the machined face of the ferrule is designed for a gas-tight fit into the female receiving end. As you tighten the threaded nut, the two pieces will be pulled tight together. If you put tape on the threads, it can actually interfere with the pieces getting pulled tightly together.

[3rd party JKor]

technically, you shouldn't need the teflon washers for the flare fittings either, but I use them because I've had a beeyotch of a time trying to get them to seal in some cases. Don't know why, but better safe than sorry.