47 replies to this topic

[positiveContact]

I don't feel like I've ever been that great at stout recipes but here we go!

 

yeast: denny's fav 50

hops: bittered with something like nugget or galena to probably 50 IBUs, then hit pretty hard towards the end of the boil with mt. hood

malt: ???

 

I want this beer to be really roasty but not harsh. moderate body is good but I don't want it to be like motor oil.

 

for base malt I have US 2-row or maris otter as the obvious choices.  then I have RB, chocolate malt, pale chocolate malt, and some less intense highly roasted malts (probably midnight wheat or dehusked carafa, I'd have to dig into the closet to check).  and of course I have an assortment of crystals (15L, 40L, 60L, 80L, 120L, special .  also have carapils if needed.

 

any thoughts?

Edited by pickle_rick, 03 September 2017 - 05:11 AM.

[Breakpoint]

I'm looking to brew something similar - roasts and hoppy.

My grain bill is looking like this:
82% base (I usually do a mix of Marris Otter and CMC pale)
10% roasted barley
4% crystal 80
4% black malt

I'm thinking about first wort hopping with a small addition of Amarillo, bittering to the 50 IBUs with Apollo at 60, then an ounce of Simcoe at flameout.

I'm not very good with stout recipes but gleaming from some recipes on the inter web, this doesn't seem to out of whack, though I may lower the RB so that it's not too bitter.

I'm m mainly brewing this so I can call it "The System only drinks in Total Darkness" from a song by The National.

[denny]

You're looking to make a classic American stout by the sounds of it.  Have you ever had Rogue's Shakespeare stout?  https://www.rogue.co...-oatmeal-stout/ Sounds like what you're going for.  Keep in mind that one reason (I feel) black IPA didn't work was a clash between the roast and the hops.  But Shakespeare is a fine beer and proof that it can be done.  I think you'd need to get pretty deep into water treatment to keep it from being harsh. 

[HVB]

You're looking to make a classic American stout by the sounds of it. Have you ever had Rogue's Shakespeare stout? https://www.rogue.co...-oatmeal-stout/ Sounds like what you're going for. Keep in mind that one reason (I feel) black IPA didn't work was a clash between the roast and the hops. But Shakespeare is a fine beer and proof that it can be done. I think you'd need to get pretty deep into water treatment to keep it from being harsh.

Morty, there is a can you brew it recipe out there for Shakespeare. I did an American stoutly last year that I may work for you, I will dig it up.

Eta:post 3 here
https://brews-bros.x...american-stout/

Edited by drez77, 12 September 2017 - 02:47 PM.

[positiveContact]

I'm kind of considering not using crystal and using carapils instead.  crazy?

[HVB]

I'm kind of considering not using crystal and using carapils instead. crazy?

Crazy, no. What is the reason? Add some oats!

[positiveContact]

Crazy, no. What is the reason? Add some oats!

 

I'd just like to try one with almost no crystal to see how I like it.  I sometimes think that I find stouts to get too sweet when they get really roasty so I'd like to see if I can avoid that.

[positiveContact]

So posting from my phone because my computer won't let me go to this site...

14lbs 2-row
2lbs Munich
1lbs carafoam
1.5lbs roasted barley
1.5lbs chocolate malt
1lbs quick oats

Mash at 155F

Water profile:
Calcium 54
Sodium 51
Sulfate 43
Chloride 90
Bicarb 84

Hops:
2oz Galena @30
1oz Mt hood @10
2oz my hood @5
3 of my hood @0

Ferment with 1450.

Srm: 47
Og: 1.055
Ibu: 44

Beer!

Edited by pickle_rick, 20 September 2017 - 03:34 AM.

[HVB]

Looks good to me. Only two changes for me would be to up oats to 2#'s and I would like the sulfate closer to 75-80. I realize both of those are personal preference.

[positiveContact]

I wasn't thinking of making a full on oatmeal stout so I thought a pound would add some nice protein for head retention.

I could readily balance out the sulfate and chloride a bit. I actually had to add baking soda to raise the phone so I could then drop it again with gypsum and cacl.

[HVB]

I was just comparing to my use of oats in ipa/apa beers and for 5g I find 1#being good.

I think either way it will be a fine beer.

[positiveContact]

my pouch of 1450 is pretty old.  manuf on april 27th.  I'm doing the 007 starter that includes yeast nutrient right now.  chances that it will be good to pitch by tomorrow afternoon?

Edited by pickle_rick, 21 September 2017 - 10:53 AM.

[neddles]

50/50 IME.

[positiveContact]

looks like it is fermenting or did ferment i guess.  slowly bubbling airlock and then I gave the fermentor a very gentle swirl and a lot of CO2 came out and a 2" layer of foam immediately formed on top.

[positiveContact]

also I adjusted my water:

 

Ca: 58

Na: 54

SO4: 73

Cl: 75

Bicarb: 92

mash pH: 5.5 (for whatever reason my strips usually tell me I'm lower than this so I don't go all the way down to 5.3)

[positiveContact]

also upped oatmeal to 1lb 14oz (what was left in the container)

[matt6150]

Are you purposely adding that much sodium? Or just how it comes out? Just curious. I don't think I have ever seen mine go over 20-30.

[positiveContact]

Are you purposely adding that much sodium? Or just how it comes out? Just curious. I don't think I have ever seen mine go over 20-30.

 

I wasn't shooting for it but I also think it might be good for a malty beer like this.  my water has 29ppm to start with.

 

the reason I added backing soda (where the extra sodium is coming from) was so that I could then add more gypsum and CaCl.  otherwise my mash pH would have been really low.  I just mashed in and it looks like I ended up around 5.3 which is what I expected.  typically I'm about 0.2 below what bru'n water predicts the last couple of years.  my water report is old though so who knows.

just for ref a gose is usually over 200ppm.

 

according to martin you don't start to actually taste "salt" until around 250ppm and over.

Edited by pickle_rick, 22 September 2017 - 06:05 AM.

[matt6150]

I wasn't shooting for it but I also think it might be good for a malty beer like this. my water has 29ppm to start with.

the reason I added backing soda (where the extra sodium is coming from) was so that I could then add more gypsum and CaCl. otherwise my mash pH would have been really low. I just mashed in and it looks like I ended up around 5.3 which is what I expected. typically I'm about 0.2 below what bru'n water predicts the last couple of years. my water report is old though so who knows.

just for ref a gose is usually over 200ppm.

according to martin you don't start to actually taste "salt" until around 250ppm and over.

Good to know. My sodium starts at 8ppm so if I do what you did like I did on my last porter by adding baking soda I only get up close to 30ppm. I guess I'm just not use to seeing sodium that high.

[positiveContact]

Good to know. My sodium starts at 8ppm so if I do what you did like I did on my last porter by adding baking soda I only get up close to 30ppm. I guess I'm just not use to seeing sodium that high.

 

if my beers are any indicator you wouldn't have a problem at 30 ppm for sure.

Edited by pickle_rick, 22 September 2017 - 07:41 AM.