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Wort Chilling


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#21 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 02:57 AM

Denny or oldfart, care to comment?I know Denny is on this board, this is no member named oldfart.

unfortunately oldfart never made the trip over here...

#22 djinkc

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 05:42 AM

I put together a motorized stirrer that goes in with the IC. Turns about 1/sec with no obvious aeration. I would rather get down below DMS temps, and get the yeast in ASAP, rather than being concerned with HSA. The stirrer has been nice, I can walk off from the chiller to finish cleanup and it cools a lot faster than when I stirred by hand.

#23 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 05:58 AM

I put together a motorized stirrer that goes in with the IC. Turns about 1/sec with no obvious aeration. I would rather get down below DMS temps, and get the yeast in ASAP, rather than being concerned with HSA. The stirrer has been nice, I can walk off from the chiller to finish cleanup and it cools a lot faster than when I stirred by hand.

That's pretty much my thought process as well.

#24 DaBearSox

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 07:24 AM

I put together a motorized stirrer that goes in with the IC. Turns about 1/sec with no obvious aeration. I would rather get down below DMS temps, and get the yeast in ASAP, rather than being concerned with HSA. The stirrer has been nice, I can walk off from the chiller to finish cleanup and it cools a lot faster than when I stirred by hand.

you got the plans for that?

#25 ranagel99

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 07:35 AM

I think the question here is do you notice any off flavors? i would only change my process if i wanted to decrease the likelihood on unfavorable results. That said, I gently stir my wort until it gets cool, then I start to really agitate it.

The only off flavor I have been concerned about in my beer is DMS. I have noticed a veggie taste in my Brown Ale, ESB, blond, and my porter (my wife calls it an oyster taste). From what I have read it sounds like DMS, but those beers also all used .5 oz of goldings or willamette hops at 20 minutes and 5 minutes, and I have always wondered if those hops are contributing the flavor I am noticing. Those beers were all 70 minute boils so I have now switched to 90 minute boils, but I haven't tasted a batch yet from my 90 minute boils.I generally drink my last brew when it I should be drinking my first so I am not sure I am giving it long enough to notice oxidation or if my palate identifies the flavors of oxidation.

#26 djinkc

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 07:50 AM

you got the plans for that?

Not much to it, cheap gearmotor with 60rpm mounted on a 1X2 that sits on the kettle. I JB welded copper pipe to the shaft, has a T on the end with more pipe flattened for the blades. I had the motor laying around, got it from https://www.sciplus.com/ or one of those places a few years ago. I just put it in the kettle at about 20 min to sanitize it with the IC.

#27 ranagel99

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 07:56 AM

The only off flavor I have been concerned about in my beer is DMS. I have noticed a veggie taste in my Brown Ale, ESB, blond, and my porter (my wife calls it an oyster taste). From what I have read it sounds like DMS, but those beers also all used .5 oz of goldings or willamette hops at 20 minutes and 5 minutes, and I have always wondered if those hops are contributing the flavor I am noticing. Those beers were all 70 minute boils so I have now switched to 90 minute boils, but I haven't tasted a batch yet from my 90 minute boils.I generally drink my last brew when it I should be drinking my first so I am not sure I am giving it long enough to notice oxidation or if my palate identifies the flavors of oxidation.

And I also began making starters on the 3 batches that I have conditioning now and cleaning with Oxiclean and sanitizing with saniclean vs. cleaning and sanitizing using boling water (on glass and metal) and/or bleach water (with plastic and as a final cleaining on my glass and metal with a final water rinse).

#28 ranagel99

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 08:32 AM

I just read in a BYO article that hot side aeration is a concern between 120-210 F. Has anyone read or experienced issues lower that 120?


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