63 replies to this topic

[Big Nake]

I make quite a few beers where hops are added at 60 (and sometimes a FWH) and that's all so this is not something that would be conducive for the styles of beer that I make. I would be interested in hearing what happened when someone did a no boil but I agree that it would be APA/IPA type styles and I didn't really think about the cloudiness factor but it sounds reasonable that you may see cloudy beer. Would a gel solution (used when the beer was cold) help? Not sure.

[HVB]

I make quite a few beers where hops are added at 60 (and sometimes a FWH) and that's all so this is not something that would be conducive for the styles of beer that I make. I would be interested in hearing what happened when someone did a no boil but I agree that it would be APA/IPA type styles and I didn't really think about the cloudiness factor but it sounds reasonable that you may see cloudy beer. Would a gel solution (used when the beer was cold) help? Not sure.

I see no reason why bio-fine would not work.  I have used biofine on NE style beers and a little bit does a lot.  I will post a picture tonight as an example.

 

This would defiantly be fore hop forward beers but if you are doing FWH and that is thought of as equivalent to a 20 minute hop and some say you can replace a WP hop addition by adding it at 20 minutes I do not see why this would not work for those beers.

 

I had planned a Cascade Blonde this weekend ( never happened last) but I am now thinking about nixing that and doing this experiment.  For the greater good!

 

[positiveContact]

I see no reason why bio-fine would not work.  I have used biofine on NE style beers and a little bit does a lot.  I will post a picture tonight as an example.

 

This would defiantly be fore hop forward beers but if you are doing FWH and that is thought of as equivalent to a 20 minute hop and some say you can replace a WP hop addition by adding it at 20 minutes I do not see why this would not work for those beers.

 

I had planned a Cascade Blonde this weekend ( never happened last) but I am now thinking about nixing that and doing this experiment.  For the greater good!

 

 

yes!

[HVB]

As I said, NE style Pale ale with 2 teaspoons of biofone.
Before- Sunday


After - today

[positiveContact]

so would you def dry hop these beers?

[HVB]

so would you def dry hop these beers?

I would yes.  If we are doing a NE style beer I think a dry hop is assumed and even done on day 2-3 of fermentation.

[positiveContact]

I would yes.  If we are doing a NE style beer I think a dry hop is assumed and even done on day 2-3 of fermentation.

 

on the one hand I agree but on the other hand I'm not sure if it will cloud my ability to tell differences between the beers.  I guess I'd probably do a keg dry hop like I normally do.  I think it makes some sense to change as the minimal number of things about whatever your normal process is.

[HVB]

on the one hand I agree but on the other hand I'm not sure if it will cloud my ability to tell differences between the beers.  I guess I'd probably do a keg dry hop like I normally do.  I think it makes some sense to change as the minimal number of things about whatever your normal process is.

Is this the PH?  You moved the goalposts .  Not sure how you can have a NE IPA with out a dry hop.  I am cool with trying it either way, as an IPA or a blonde ale (no dryhop).  The blonde would surly be faster to the finish and a result.

[positiveContact]

Is this the PH?  You moved the goalposts .  Not sure how you can have a NE IPA with out a dry hop.  I am cool with trying it either way, as an IPA or a blonde ale (no dryhop).  The blonde would surly be faster to the finish and a result.

 

I'm moving them on myself even!

 

I'm just throwing ideas out there.  I think it makes sense to do a dry hop however you normally do a dry hop for these beers.  if you normally dry hop during fermentation do that.  in my case I usually dry hop after I've dropped most of the yeast out.

[HVB]

I'm moving them on myself even!

 

I'm just throwing ideas out there.  I think it makes sense to do a dry hop however you normally do a dry hop for these beers.  if you normally dry hop during fermentation do that.  in my case I usually dry hop after I've dropped most of the yeast out.

 

Do you even NEIPA bro?  Biotransforms!

[positiveContact]

I guess I don't! 

[HVB]

So this is where I am.

8g batch

Grist

13# - Two Row

1.5# - Vienna

.5# - Acid Malt

 

OG - 1.050 - Pre-boil OG - 1.045 SRM - 5.8

 

Water

Ca - 56

SO4 - 65

Cl - 50

pH ~ 5.39

 

Hops

Either whole cascades or a blend of Simcoe and Citra.  I have a few #'s of whole hops I should start using up and this seems like a good time.  I will use one of these and add 4oz to each keg before I run the 170* beer into it.

 

Yeast

Wyeast 1056

 

Two things I am struggling with.  The gravity on the beers will be different since one will be boiled for 30 and one will be pre-boil.  In theory one will go in at 1.045 and one at 1.050.  No way I see around that with out designing 2 separate beers.  The other issue is Brewtan.  I can either not use it, just add it to the mash or add it to the boil beer as normal and just add it to the no-boil in the keg. 

 

My plan is to no sparge mash and run off into my kettle as normal and measure the pre-boil amount once I am at 170*.  Half of that will get run off to a corny with hops to steep and naturally cool and the other half will be boiled for 30 minutes and then cooled to 170* and run off to a keg with hops like the no boil.  Once at pitching temp they will both get the yeast and will be fermented at about 64-65 with the normal temp raise to 70 towards the end.

 

What am I missing??

[positiveContact]

no crystal?  madness! 

 

how about if you add a little bit of water near the end of your boiled beer to bring the volume back up?

 

the brewtan I'm not sure what to do.  can we add that to 170-180F wort?  if not I might consider only adding it to the mash but I dunno.

 

otherwise that all sounds good to me.

 

are you gong to use the drain on your kettle to run off the first half?  i'm nervous about cooking wort in there when I boil the second half.

[positiveContact]

or really you could add that water at any time during your boil if you know about how much you'll boil off.

[HVB]

I could also calculate in the boil off and pull off the correct amount so both volumes are the same.

 

I will run off through the ball valve.  All electric so no issue there with scorching.

[positiveContact]

I could also calculate in the boil off and pull off the correct amount so both volumes are the same.

 

I will run off through the ball valve.  All electric so no issue there with scorching.

 

regarding the calculate the boil off part I agree.  that's what I was thinking.  really just split whatever you collect from the mash tun and then top off with whatever you boiled off towards the end.  basically plan to only collect what you would normally have post-boil for a full non-split batch and then split it up!

 

I feel pretty confident I would cook stuff in there using my SQ14.  I guess I just use a pyrex measuring cup?  or maybe try to siphon with the silicone tubing I use to drain from the mash tun?  the 170-180F should kill anything in or on it right?

Edited by Evil_Morty, 30 March 2017 - 06:30 AM.

[HVB]

I will boil in it before I move stuff over and also hit it with sanatizer.

[positiveContact]

I will boil in it before I move stuff over and also hit it with sanatizer.

 

are talking about the tubing for my situation?  sorry if I'm being dense.

[HVB]

are talking about the tubing for my situation?  sorry if I'm being dense.

no, sorry the ball valve. It was in reference to "the 170-180F should kill anything in or on it right?"

[HVB]

Just ordered some s-05 and S-04 so may go with that for ease instead.